THE SUNDAY SNAP

A glimpse of fourteenth-century frescoes by a Cretan master painter

The church of St Nikolaos in Maza is no bigger than a garden shed. Were it not for the fact that is stands free in the middle of the village square, right outside the bougainvillea-draped taverna, you would pass it without a glance. But location is everything. You’d have to be a very un-inquisitive diner not to take a peek behind its wooden doors as you’re waiting for your next cold beer.

Inside, it’s a riot. The walls are covered with frescoes made in Byzantine style in 1325-6 by the Cretan artist Ioannis Pagomenos, who was active for most of the first half of the fourteenth-century, when Crete was ruled from Venice. They’re cracked and worn in places, and there are some sections where the plaster has fallen away completely. But by and large the colours are bright and the effect of dozens of saints crowding around the little cloth-covered altar, above which Christ looms, stern and majestic, is powerful.

I’m travelling for the rest of the month, but will keep you posted with these sorts of nuggets. If you’re planning a trip, remember you can still enter the JourneyHero/Powers & Thrones competition. You can pick up some holiday reading by pre-ordering my forthcoming collaboration with Marina Amaral, A Woman’s World. You could pre-order a signed edition of my new novel, Essex Dogs, via WH Smith. (It’s currently on offer at half price.)

Or you can just enjoy your Sunday. Choose your own adventure. I’ll speak to you soon.

dan