The church of St Nikolaos in Maza is no bigger than a garden shed. Were it not for the fact that is stands free in the middle of the village square, right outside the bougainvillea-draped taverna, you would pass it without a glance. But location is everything. You’d have to be a very un-inquisitive diner not to take a peek behind its wooden doors as you’re waiting for your next cold beer.
Inside, it’s a riot. The walls are covered with frescoes made in Byzantine style in 1325-6 by the Cretan artist Ioannis Pagomenos, who was active for most of the first half of the fourteenth-century, when Crete was ruled from Venice. They’re cracked and worn in places, and there are some sections where the plaster has fallen away completely. But by and large the colours are bright and the effect of dozens of saints crowding around the little cloth-covered altar, above which Christ looms, stern and majestic, is powerful.
I’m travelling for the rest of the month, but will keep you posted with these sorts of nuggets. If you’re planning a trip, remember you can still enter the JourneyHero/Powers & Thrones competition. You can pick up some holiday reading by pre-ordering my forthcoming collaboration with Marina Amaral, A Woman’s World. You could pre-order a signed edition of my new novel, Essex Dogs, via WH Smith. (It’s currently on offer at half price.)
Or you can just enjoy your Sunday. Choose your own adventure. I’ll speak to you soon.
dan
THE SUNDAY SNAP
Travelling again? Work or pleasure? Either way enjoy your travels!
I’m always beating on about Cornwall, but here I go again. Although not as gorgeously preserved as this, Cornwall has two pretty good examples of medieval church murals. In fact, Breage Church’s mural, a stunning Christ of the Trade, is considered one of the best examples in the country! It’s always sobering seeing these paintings in the flesh, especially when not many have survived due to the Reformation.
Anyway, cheers for this snap, Dan! It’s really stirred up a reason for me to go on a history hunt for some murals!
It's a quiet Sunday morning here. It's going to be a scorcher so that's my excuse to do as little as possible! Happy Sunday everyone.